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REVIEW "Handsome and interactive with gracious service", Square Meal

Saving the best till last, the reopening of this handsome dining room marks the completion of Andaz hotel's lavish refurbishment. The Grade-II listed interior of 1901 still defers to its show-stealing proportions and striking glass dome, though a cheese & wine tasting area points to an interactive modern approach.

British produce stars on a menu that celebrates provenance, so smoked haddock may hail from Lincolnshire, but its inventive boudin shape & sauce americaine show the kitchen's wider influences. At main, tender cannon of Elwy Valley lamb comes with a miniature shepherd's pie. To finish, the Brit-dominated cheese cellar is unmissable. Gracious service, generously spaced tables and the engaging sommelier's refreshing approach to the region-led wine list is a bonus.