A salad of octopus with shaved fennel & pepper is refreshingly tangy, while circles of pink seared tuna are subtly underpinned by an olive, walnut & red wine dressing. Mains are also up to standard: roast black bream with buttery girolles & a sweetly creamy parsnip sauce, & a tranche of Loch Duart salmon pepped with lemony oil & ballasted by moreish spiced lentils & cauliflower cream.

 

Presentation is faultless (inventive desserts look like arty miniatures), service assured & the sommelier's recommendations hit the spot. A separate entrance means diners no longer have to push through the buzzy Champagne bar to reach the exceptionally pretty dining room, although the two are still linked.